It is always laudable when someone takes a long hard look at a tried and tested formula and goes on to upgrade and improve it. Hop & Spice opened in November 2006 with the promise that we would get the beer and curry that was reflected in the name. The curry was represented by a range of Sri Lankan dishes and the beer by a list that stretched from Lion Sri Lankan lager, to Old Speckled Hen, or Youngs Double Chocolate Stout by way of Paulaner Bavarian Wheatbeer. This is a pleasant modern restaurant that has a real buzz to it, despite the ever-irritating policy of having someone ask "Have you eaten with us before?" which is code for, "We have an unusual and complicated system, brace yourself for a lecture". There is a terrible temptation to say "Yes" even when you have little idea of how things work.

In practice Hop & Spice cobbles together the tapas/grazing approach with traditional thalis - most of the dishes come as small portions; you order about four per person; they arrive on a thali. The food is good and fresh , although the kitchen has eased back on the chilli (should you want hot Sri Lankan food there's plenty to be found just up the road in Tooting) The daily specials are worth a look, otherwise the Jaffna coconut lamb; the fried spiced chicken; the Batticaloan king prawn; the Ceylon calamari are all very sound. Hidden away at the end of the menu are a few main courses - lamb kottu roti is a trad dish made from a combination of noodle like strips of roti stir fried with lamb, chilli and egg, not authentically hot but great comfort food. I would hazard a guess that the successful tag team - food that is different from mainstream Indian restaurants but not chilli-intimidating; and a good range of beer will continue to keep this place busy.

Some news in respect of the Great Menu Outrage Competition, after a lengthy period of being pushed to the bottom of the "to-do" list there is finally some action and the first three lucky winners will be announced on Friday 29 June.

Charles Campion

Hop & Spice, 53 Bedford Hill, SW12 (020 8675 3121)