I must confess that what is on the plate always commands my attention, I do glance around the dining room when eating but that is usually to reassure myself that the other diners are having a good time. But there are people who are wholly focussed on where they are eating rather than what they are eating and their influence is starting to make itself felt. Sometimes the "style" element of a restaurant interior can be so over the top that it starts to have a certain charm.

At his new place "Rhodes W1" the spiky haired one has stirred up this debate with an interior by Kelly Hoppen. The room is a symphony in taupe with Swarovski crystal chandeliers and fabric framed mirrors (you'll have to check these unlikely sounding elements out for yourself). The food was very good indeed and a starter that presented a runny boiled egg with a crisp coating and morels with little Roquefort toast soldiers was outstanding; as was a cauliflower and Lancashire cheese mousse with broad beans that was like a very snooty cauli cheese; and the salt roast pigeon, white asparagus, cabbage hearts and lemon cumin gravy. This is French classical cuisine seen through a British prism. The head chef here is a man called Brian Hughson and anyone fancying a wager before this year's stars are dished out should jot down his name.

Also in the frame for eccentric décor is Clos Maggiore which opened in February and was a remake of an existing site. Someone has re-designed the restaurant so that it looks like a cross between Country Living and a French holiday brochure. Sitting in the rear part of the dining room with the faux gas log fireplace, under the interwoven twigs with everlasting silk flower cherry blossom that make a canopy under the roof light, does lead to a surreal feeling but the food is compensation enough. The menu is both seasonal and ambitious, dishes are complicated, multi-textured, rich… and none the worse for that. Starters may include an etuvée of asparagus and new season morels with ricotta gnocchi and a sauce made with marc de Gewürztraminer; or a remoulade of Dorset crab with marjoram, pickled cauliflower and brown shrimps  - works really well - contrasting textures. For mains, slow cooked Cornish Cod fillet comes with ricotta and Burgundy snails; hake is plated with slow cooked pork belly - a stunning dish, well thought through. Roast black leg chicken with foie gras is presented in a tight roll, like a ballotine, but still remains light and juicy. Puds are elaborate - the tarte Tatin of apples and quince with cinnamon ice cream lingers in the memory. This is a terribly ambitious, and largely successful,  French restaurant… and we could all do with a few more of those.

Why should we settle for the triumph of style over substance? These two restaurants seem to achieve both at once…

Charles Campion

Rhodes W1, Cumberland Hotel, Great Cumberland Place W1 (020 7479 3737)

Clos Maggiore, 33 King Street WC2  (020 7379 9696)