When you visit a brand new restaurant in its early days a glance around the dining room will often reveal a great deal about the place. Last week while lunching at Angelus our fellow diners included the man behind one of London’s most successful restaurant groups; an iconic French chef; the maitre d’ from a Michelin starred establishment; and a restaurant critic from one of the glossies. Bear in mind that Angelus has been open for a few weeks now and the initial rush of hungry critics eager to be first over the threshold has abated - almost everyone who is anyone has already been.

Angelus is unusual in that it is a restaurant led by the front of house – the redoubtable Thierry Tomasin formerly at Aubergine and formerly, formerly, a sommelier at Le Gavroche. Tomasin had always intended to set up his own place and on several occasions has insisted that he wanted a “Chef from France” his view being that cheffy London has become rather predictable. He went on to bring over Olivier Duret and even by reading the menu at Angelus you could tell that this restaurant has Modern French aspirations.

The “signature” starter is a foie gras crème brulée with toasted pain au levain, this is a strange dish with the creamy, livery, base topped with a crisp crust of sugar and poppy seeds. For me the sweetness of the crisp topping did not work with the unctuous filling and the richness of the foie gras cried out for something sharp or tangy to set it off. Starters like the duck terrine are much more accomplished – classical, well-made and enlivened by a “sesame gomasio” something crisp and savoury for balance.

Main courses range from sea bream with sesame seeds and cous cous; to a delicious Anjou pigeon roast with salsify and bacon; yellow Pollock with a chorizo crust; and perhaps the most impressive dish - the “tourte de lapin et foie gras au vieux Porto, salade de mesclun”. A rustic rabbit pie, with admirably short crust pastry and a filling of rabbit and spinach lubricated with foie gras…very delicious indeed. Puds are agreeably French poached pears; Guanara chocolate tart; a chocolate and praline “cocktail”.

Despite its location to the north of Hyde Park there is something pleasantly French about Angelus. The service has an agreeably formal feel to it, the standard of cooking is high and the prices are not over-grasping (starters £6 to £9; mains £14 to £19; puds £7 to £10).  It is also home to a formidable rabbit pie.

Charles Campion

Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, W2 (020 7402 0083)