Every time I eat a fine partridge I find myself wondering why everyone goes so potty over grouse. The grey partridge is a small bird with tender flesh and a delicate but assertive gaminess.

There was something of an informal gamefest at the Dorchester Grill recently and head chef Aidan Byrne excelled himself. The opening move was a chestnut and pheasant soup with smoked foie gras, this soup was a million miles away from chestnut blandness and had a decent tang to it, making the slices of roast pheasant breast seem sweet and the foie gras melting luxury. Then came a “partridge, pear and truffle salad” – a cold roast partridge breast came sealed beneath a thin layer of Madeira and tarragon jelly. This was a tour de force, presenting the partridge cold brought out its delicate taste and ruled out any potential dryness. Perhaps it is time to bring back all those dishes in aspic? Then there was a dish of mallard with chou croute and a magnificent sweet garlic sauce; and finally loin of hare with chicory, parsnip purée and a small casserole containing an “A-class” hare hotpot. Hold the aspic revival, let’s see more hot pots if they can always be as rich and satisfying as this one.

Partridge also featured on the lunch menu at newly opened Hibiscus. Claude and Claire Bosi have moved their restaurant (and a good many of their loyal staff) from Ludlow to Mayfair. Although you rarely get an accurate picture of true potential it is good fun visiting a restaurant during its early days, not least because you can be sure that you will know plenty of the other diners,(at lunch last week no fewer than four tables were taken up by gentlemen and ladies of the press all eager to see how the new restaurant compared to its previous incarnation). I enjoyed the food when I tried it in Ludlow, although I must confess that the some of the “cutting edge” dishes were a little too sharp for their own good. If anything the food in London is better. Dishes still have some incredible contrasts of flavour and texture but they are not quite so spooky as before. The partridge was magnificent as was a very pink hunk of veal – satisfyingly chewy and with bags of flavour. Having felt obliged to dodge the “savoury ice cream of foie gras, warm emulsion of brioche, balsamic vinegar caramel” combo, the lamb sweetmeats  starter – “croquettes of lamb sweetmeats, tartare of native oysters with sweetcorn and Thai curry, watercress salad” was a belter – subtle flavours and complimentary textures. The chocolate tart was as good at Maddox Streetas it had been in Shropshire– ultra-short pastry and a crusted top to the molten chocolate filling; like a chocolate fondant pudding but very much better. The new Hibiscus is a friendly place with classy food, a decent wine list and fair price tag (£49.50 for three courses).

Charles Campion

The Grill Room, The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1 (020 7629 8888)

Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, W1   (020 7629 2999)