The Prince Arthur is the latest addition to the Martin Brothers’ portfolio and like their other gastropubs it has a postcode that is out there amongst the “E numbers”, (although they are rumoured to be opening near Sloane Square later on this year). Tom and Ed Martin cut their teeth with the Well in Clerkenwell before moving on to the White Swan – serious cooking in the restaurant upstairs; the Gun – upscale pricing in Docklands with an al fresco Portuguese grill tacked onto the terrace in case the sun ever shines again; the Empress of India – a tremendous Victoria Park local. And now the Prince Arthur, which they like to think is in London Fields (the fields are actually a bracing walk away; the Arthur is in Dalston, chic Dalston, but Dalston nevertheless).

One of the strengths of the Martin Brothers’ hostelries is that they retain a decent measure of pubby-ness and the Arthur is no exception, the interior has the warm, dark brown, feel that you get in comfortable pubs and the bar offers a couple of real ales. The menu is short – seven starters and five mains – it is also sensibly priced – starters are around the £5 or £6 mark and the priciest main is under £12. This good value theme is somewhat dented by a £1 charge for bread and butter and side dishes coming in at £3. (It seems out of kilter to pay a modest £5 for “rabbit loin and braised oxtail terrine with poached pear” but then to be asked over half that amount for mashed potato or cauliflower cheese). The terrine was a good one, a little chilly from the fridge but well made and well-seasoned. Other starters include a home-made pork pie; a pint o’prawns with mayonnaise; and a pickled beetroot salad with goats’ cheese curd, walnuts and sticky dates – an interesting combination of flavours. Main courses are blissfully straightforward – pork belly comes with sound crackling, roast parsnips, Brussel tops and a tart apple sauce. The combo of scampi, fat chips and sauce tartare is tried and tested and none the worse for that. The chicken pie with roast ceps and Blue Wensleydale has been highly recommended. Service is smiley and dishes fly out of the kitchen – another benefit of the short menu approach. Puds range from lemon tart to “deep fried jam sandwich with plum chutney and Carnation milk ice cream” and spotted dick.

It is very difficult to judge just how casual the cooking in a local pub should be. The denizens of E8 are a sophisticated bunch who will be well aware of the latest trends in West End restos so it’s important that the grub has some oomph to it, but neither the dishes nor the prices should ever be frightening. The Martin Brothers have judged things pretty well at their other establishments and it looks as if the Arthur will be equally successful.

Charles Campion

The Prince Arthur, 95 Forest Road, E8 (020 7249 9996) www.theprincearthurlondonfields.com

The Well, 180 St John Street, EC1 (020 7251 9363) www.downthewell.com

The White Swan,108 Fetter Lane, EC4 (020 7242 9696) www.thewhiteswanlondon.com

The Gun, 27 Coldharbour, E14 (020 7515 5222) www.thegundocklands.com

The Empress of India, 130 Lauriston Road, E9 (020 8533 5123) www.theempressofindia.com