Several years ago, (and before he went on to a good many high profile restaurant jobs), Tom Ilic first worked in the kitchens of the restaurant at 123 Queenstown Road. Just before Christmas 2007 Ilic took over 123 and opened his own restaurant - this time with his name over the door and his savings on the line. A cheerful chap, Ilic has a reputation for good cooking and an understanding of all things piggy and porky, some of his earlier missions – New End in Hampstead by way of example – served well made, gutsy, likeable dishes and got plenty of glowing reviews but still failed to make it count on the balance sheet.

The new restaurant is a friendly and unpretentious place and (much as you would find in France) because the chefs are in at lunch time doing the evening’s mis en place it makes sense to offer a simple set lunch. Four starters, four mains and three puds – the evening dishes may be a touch more elaborate but the lunch dishes are by no means poor relations. Tom’s lunch menu changes every week and is available on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, customer support varies, sometimes there are two dozen happy lunchers and sometimes no one at all.

Now all of this may be expected to stir a modicum of interest if Tom Ilic’s restaurant is your local but it should be making waves everywhere… two courses of seriously good grub costs £12.50 or push the boat out and go for three courses at £14.95. Food of this quality at this price is an awesome bargain. Last week the starters were sautéed langoustine, parmesan gnocchi and shellfish nage; a warm salad of goats’ cheese; cured, roast and tartare of salmon, orange and beetroot salad; or honey glazed pork belly, black pudding, apple and parsnip purée. Good cooking and grand combinations of flavours. The salmon plate was elegant and the different styles distinct and delicious. The slow cooked pork was the kind of starter that could easily pass as a main. The mains: roast rump of lamb, spinach and gratin potatoes; baked fillet of sea bass, braised fennel and crushed new potatoes; slow cooked beef, caramelised root vegetables and bone marrow (a straggler from the evening à la Carte, very rich and unctuous); a butternut squash and mushroom croustillant.

This is very grown-up cooking for a cheap lunch. Puds were a glazed lemon tart, berry compote, clotted cream – good pastry; sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream – suitably sticky; and a pear tart Tatin with cinnamon ice cream – good caramelisation. And there are several easy drinking bottles on the lower slopes of the wine list.

This lunch deal may just be the one to take Le Gavroche’s crown as “London’s best value set lunch”. Such bargains are to be encouraged.

Charles Campion

Tom Ilic, 123 Queenstown Road, SW8 (020 7622 0555) www.tomilic.com