There is  continuing debate about defining the “right” moment to visit a new restaurant, one school of thought has it that the moment the doors are open (and often sometimes before the paint is dry) restaurants are ready for review. The writers and editors in this camp always say that as soon as a resto is charging full price the it is fair game. The opposing argument runs along the lines of “give them a chance to settle in” and mirrors a tried and tested strategy – who wants to be the first person to use new computer software or operating systems? XP will do very nicely for another year or two  yet while boffins work out any unforeseen glitches in Vista. But while waiting a while before visiting may get you better service and a better dinner, it too presents problems because you cannot help read what everyone else has written about a new restaurant before forming your own opinion.

And so it was with Urban Turban, Vineet Bhatia’s new establishment on Westbourne Grove. I start from a standpoint of admiration – Vineet has always been a terrific cook the food was good at the Star of India, then at Zayka and currently his chic Chelsea Michelin spangled kitchen Rasoi. That’s a pretty convincing C.V. and many splendid meals.  However it has taken me until now to get in to see the Urban Turban and I did so burdened with the knowledge that others had found the service very poor, the waiters rude, the portions small and “un-authentic” (whatever authentic means) and the prices high.

The room is large and dominated by an island bar, the seating at the round tables around the periphery is a combination of banquettes (comfortable) and stools (less so). The service seemed fine and considering the complexity of some dishes the food arrived in good time. As for authenticity – you would expect the street food of Mumbai to undergo a few tweaks on its journey to London W2. The menu leads with “desi tapas” A.K.A. the starters – sample a few and then move on to a curry. A good option is the “platter” which serves two people and costs £12 a head. It’s not a platter. It’s a perspex stand and the six different dishes are presented in cones of paper. Don’t worry, Vineet has form for extravagant presentation (at Rasoi a soup used to come to table in a china cup that appeared to defy gravity due to being secured on a vertical saucer by a magnet).

The paper cones are quirky but not offensive. The contents are delicious – machli Amritsari – goujons of white fish in spiced batter - well judged; lamb seekh kebab – a little dry, but well spiced; chicken lollipos – delicious, crisp and tender; chilli chicken – agreeably hot; khandvi – rolled pancakes, interesting texture; and potato chat – like moody potato salad. Good flavours and textures. Good fun. Set aside the aberration that is the “volcanic rock grill platter – cook scallop, prawn, swordfish, lamb rolls, chicken tikka on a hot volcanic stone at your table”. What this means is you get to warm up chicken tikka etcetera, unless they bring a tandoor to the table you will never be able to cook these dishes yourself. Cooking on hot stones was a fine gimmick in country pubs during the early 1980’s and that’s where it should have stayed. The “mains” at Urban include a very decent lamb biryani with crust – very good raita; a spicy Punjabi chicken masala that is indeed suitably spicy; and a smoked aubergine and pea masala that manages to be very light. The breads are fine, if on the small side. It is a pleasure to eat dishes where the spicing has not been toned down and messed about with, at the Urban Turban what should be chilli hot is chilli hot.

Overall, (and as is evident from a packed restaurant on a Tuesday night) Vineet is getting it right, even if the presentation of dishes can sometimes get too involved. The food is good, and at about £35 per head in W2 it is neither cheap nor expensive, the service seems sound and the room had an agreeable buzz to it. All of which makes you wonder if that is what this restaurant was like during those first frantic days when the reviewers piled in.

Charles Campion

Urban Turban, 98 Westbourne Grove, W2 (020 7243 4200)