“Momo” Mazouz has a glint in his eye. He stalks around Sketch’s Gallery restaurant fretting about the service, worrying about the food and taking a personal interest in each and every party throughout the building. Where he gets the energy from is a mystery, but energy there is, crackling from his fingertips. The extravaganza that is Sketch opened in 2002 and is a joint venture between the tireless Momo and headlining French chef Pierre Gagnaire. When Sketch first opened critics took turns to put the boot in and their common theme was unjustifiably high prices. Perhaps everywhere else has caught up but now the prices (starters £8.50-£22; mains £11-£32; side dishes £3.50-£5; desserts £7-£10) do not seem quite so out of place given that it’s an upscale restaurant in Mayfair. It’s a shocking milestone to pass, but the idea of paying £70-£80 per person for the food element of dinner no longer seems outlandish. Judge the Gallery on the basis of its cooking (not concerning oneself with the buzz of the place; the video art show; or the silky service) and it makes a good impression.

The style of the dishes may be a little rarefied – think Michelin style, very complex French food with confident presentation and the occasional jolting combination of ingredients. But at the basis of everything is a respect of quality ingredients – there’s a main course pigeon dish “roast fillet of Anjou pigeon with sarlette / marinated, then deep fried pigeon leg / red pepper and mango marmalade / jus emulsion with foie gras”. The fruity flavours work well with the pigeon that is barely cooked and wine red - the meat itself impossibly tender. Skilfully sourced and skilfully cooked – the head chef Jean Denis le Bras (Mon. Gagnaire is billed as consultant) has real talent. Also impressive were starters like “Kiki” – this is roast saddle of rabbit / rillettes with cumbawa / coco bean velouté / Venetian jelly / caramelised pistachios. What you get is the fascinating contrasting textures of the rabbit and the jelly, it’s a very impressive plateful. Some of the most charming dishes are hiding out in the side dishes section – “ronde lettuce and anchovies” is a stunning combination with the vinegary pickled anchovies acting as “dressing” for crisp lettuce leaves. And then there’s the mashed potato. Truly greedy people will forgive much in exchange for mash this good, and this buttery. Puds are also epic with the inspired choice being “From the Parlour” which earns you three or four “petits gateaux” – presumably a device for using up the day’s surplus stock from the tea room. You’re unlikely to pop into the Gallery for supper on your way home; and dinner here is probably best saved for a special occasion (note that the Gallery is only open in the evening); but this place has bags of atmosphere and well cooked, sophisticated food.

If the Gallery sounds a bit rich for your blood, then BBC Radio Four could do with a helping hand. Entries for the 2008 Food and Farming Awards must close at midnight on August 10th 2008 and one area where they are keen to see more suggestions is the Take-away category. To nominate your favourite chippy, kebabbery, burger bar, Chinese, Indian or whatever.. just jot down a couple of hundred words saying why you think it’s so special and post them with your name and address to:

BBC Food and Farming Awards, Room 6045, Broadcasting House, Portland Place, London, W1A 1AA

Or you can send an email to foodawards@bbc.co.uk. You’ll find more details at www.bbc.co.uk/foodawards, and the other categories are also worth a look.

More wilful self-promotion! click here to view this photo

Charles Campion

The Gallery at Sketch, 9 Conduit Street, W1 (020 7659 4500) www.sketch.uk.com